MV Smiling Seahorse Liveaboard Diving Review Thailand Similan Islands

”Great liveaboard in a region few other boats venture into. I just spent 8 days onboard the Smiling Seahorse in the Mergui Archipelago (Myanmar). Franck & Camille run a top-notch operation here. The new boat (2nd season in the water) was designed and built by them, and they’ve done a brilliant job with the layout and all the little details that are important for us divers.

She is a beauty! The cabins are comfortable with plenty of power sockets and storage space, and with a silent AC unit and ensuite bathroom/toilet (I stayed in a Deluxe Cabin). The sundeck is huge, shaded and great to relax on, as well as the upper deck that has plenty of tables and sofas. The fridges and bar area are always stocked with drinks, snacks and freshly brewed coffee. The main deck has a really well designed and spacious dive deck, making it super comfortable to gear up before and after each dives. There’s a really big photo room for all the camera gear, with lots of power sockets.

That’s also where the kitchen and chef is located. The food on the boat is really delicious, varied and plentiful. To top it all up, the way the diving and dive groups are organized is perfect: first, you can do 4 dives a day, every single day. This means a night dive every day! I’ve never had that on any other liveaboards. And the dive groups are always small: maximum 4 divers per guide. On this trip we were only 9 clients so most groups were 2 divers per guide, and every group usually jumps in the water with enough intervals so you don’t even meet on the dive sites. I believe this really is a great set-up: relaxed, intimate, personalized diving. You feel like you have the whole ocean to yourself (very few other liveaboards come to these waters).

Franck and the guides (all instructors) are all super nice, warm and fun to hang with, and they are also very experienced, serious and knowledgeable divers/guides. There’s a great vibe on the boat. All the dives are the regular 50bar and/or 50-60minutes. The local crew members and tenders are all super cool and very good at their jobs: the gear is always well taken care of, the tanks and Nitrox blending always spot on, the boat always drops you at the right spot to find the dive site, and all the decks are always clean and tidy. Now the diving: first we were quite unlucky this week with some pretty bad viz (usually 5 to 10 meters). Second, even though the archipelago is a no-fishing zone, this is not enforced at all and there are a lot of small fishing boats everywhere and on all the dive sites (nets, cages, lines).

Despite that, the quantity of life on most sites is pretty amazing: incredibly healthy and thriving corals, countless reef fish, big schools of barracudas, trevallies, Jacks, etc.. We saw a lot of critters (nudibranchs, shrimps, crabs, seahorses….) as well as quite a lot of massive marble rays and stingrays. The topography at most sites we went to is breathtaking: dramatic pinnacles and walls, gorgeous coral gardens, boulder fields, swim-throughs and small caves. I can only imagine how incredible these sites would be with a better viz (that you do get!). Probably due to the combined bad viz and over-fishing, we didn’t see many sharks or turtles, and no mantas (but they were spotted on multiple dives the week before us). But still, the diving was great and I can only recommend the Smiling Seahorse and the Mergui Archipelago! I will be back!” Recommended for: The boat, the crew, the diving.